Shakhtar Donetsk: Defying Adversity in London for Champions League Glory

With no matches in Ukraine, Shakhtar Donetsk is once again on the move, setting up their Champions League campaign at Chelsea’s iconic Stamford Bridge. The morning starts with a light training session, as players who didn’t feature in the previous day’s match against Veres Rivne take to the pitch. Coach Arda Turan, along with director of football Darijo Srna, looks on from the sidelines. A stray ball rolls their way, and Srna, with a deft touch, sends it curling into the net. “Modric!” Turan laughs, highlighting their shared football legacy. As they banter, it’s a reminder that this scene could unfold anywhere, though the backdrop is far from typical. Just beyond their hotel, a serene lake mirrors the rising sun. However, that tranquility is shattered by the early morning sound of air raid sirens. Even in this peaceful spa hotel, just 15 minutes from Lviv, the threat of Russian attacks looms large. Players and staff had to seek shelter during a recent alert in Rivne, a stark reminder of the harsh reality they face each week. Shakhtar’s travel plans are anything but ordinary, as they adapt to a schedule that would overwhelm most Champions League teams. This season, they’ll host their matches in England for the first time, with Stamford Bridge winning the venue battle against two other options in the capital. The journey from Ukraine to Poland can be grueling, with some trips stretching up to 18 hours. The Guardian has been invited to accompany them as they prepare for their “home” game against AEK Athens. “It brings back good memories for me, and hopefully for our players too,” Turan says, all smiles before embarking on their convoy. Since taking the helm in May 2025, he has transformed Shakhtar’s fortunes, often recalling his own glory days, including a memorable semi-final goal against Chelsea in 2014. Forward Alisson was unaware of Turan’s storied past and has quickly learned about his coach's heroics. Yet, Turan acknowledges the stark truth: “It’s an iconic stadium, but it’s not our home. Without a stadium to call our own, it’s incredibly challenging—ask any club. But we hold onto our dreams and find strength within.” That strength will be essential for the journey ahead. Shakhtar has become adept at packing their bags and relocating to Poland, Germany, or Slovakia for their European fixtures. Yet, the emotional toll is mounting, especially with ongoing hostilities in Ukraine. “In the first year of playing away, there was a lot of enthusiasm,” reflects Vitaliy Khlivnyuk, Shakhtar’s director of sports management. “But as time goes on, it gets tougher. It’s like not sleeping; at first, you can recover, but eventually, it takes a toll. Physically, you might manage, but mentally, it’s draining.” Khlivnyuk humorously describes his office as a “panic room,” filled with the constant stress of managing a team amidst war. Today’s challenge involves securing new residency permits for foreign players, but the bureaucratic system has been disrupted by ongoing conflict in Kyiv. Kyiv, previously Shakhtar’s base, is now a perilous location. “It feels like a place where even the birds don’t sing,” Khlivnyuk laments, recalling the early days of the Donetsk invasion in 2014. While domestic matches still take place there, the entire league may soon need to shift westward. Meanwhile, as lunch approaches, one of Shakhtar’s bus drivers, Oleksandr, prepares for the long journey. He’s lost track of the miles traveled over the past two and a half years but remembers a particularly exhausting 930-mile trek to Slovenia last season. Today, they plan to leave at 1 PM. Some players engage in playful banter near the dessert table, but as the clock ticks down, they scramble to gather their things. The squad splits into smaller vehicles for comfort, a change made last year that has been well-received. Other staff members follow in a larger bus, winding their way through quaint villages and past glimmering churches. Crumbling Soviet signs serve as reminders of a complex history, while modest cemeteries starkly reflect the present. At the Krakovets border crossing, names are checked off a list before they arrive, which takes just under two hours. Many players jump out to stretch, and Kauã Elias, one of Shakhtar’s promising Brazilian talents, shares his experience. “I didn’t know what to expect regarding travel before coming here, but it’s just part of the routine now. My friends ask about playing in a country at war, but the bus rides are really the only difference. Having fellow Brazilians around makes it easier.” In Lviv, the squad gathers weekly to cook churrasco, a slice of normalcy amid the chaos.